Food Just Like Grandma Made

A Food and Wine Experience Summer 2011

By Lindy Baker and Judy Tischler

Seghesio Winery is located about ½ mile north of Healdsburg, just off Dry Creek Road.  It is a historic winery, having been family owned and run, until its recent sale, since 1901.  The winery is best known for its award-winning Zinfandels.  Upon entering you will notice a lovely picnic area under the shade of old oak trees.

This tasting was different; unlike any of the others we had attended. The pairing is served at the “family table”; a private room upstairs from the tasting room that seats 8 – 10 people.  Chef Peter Janiak serves appetizer-sized portions of family inspired dishes together on one plate; with five wines poured as a flight.

Our host, Andy, met our group in the main tasting room and took us to an upstairs patio where he treated us to a taste of their Pinot Grigio as well as a couple of current releases, then led us on a  tour of the winery and barrel room.  About 35 minutes later, we were seated upstairs at the family table, Andy explained all the wines we would taste along with a brief description of our “bites”.  He encouraged us to explore our own wine pairings rather than pairing specific wines with specific dishes, although the wines were arranged in sequence, as was the tasting plate.

Lindy: You know, while Andy was explaining the wines, I was looking at and taking pictures of the plate and surrounding area and when I went back to fully paying attention I thought “is he still talking about the zin we are going to taste” then I looked at the menu and realized that 3 of the 5 wines were zins.

Judy: Seghesio is famous for their zins, and I agree this was mostly “zin-centric”.

Even though all the food was on one plate, let’s start with the first pairing first:

Chef Peter’s Shrimp and Corn Ravioli with Piquillo Pepper Cream, to be enjoyed with a 2004 Home Ranch Zinfandel.

The plate of food is served all one time

Judy:  I loved the piquillo cream with the zinfandel.  Home Ranch Vineyard was Seghesio’s first vineyard and some of the fines are 80 years old.  While 90% zin; the bit of carignane and sirah blended in rounded it out well, this was an interesting wine showing great maturity.

 Lindy: I found this pairing confused.  While the Piquillo cream did work with the zin, the shrimp did not fare as well.  Also, there was a sausage patty on the plate that just didn’t seem to fit, although the patty and the sauce might have made a better pairing, IMHO.

 Second up: Peter Seghesio’s Chicken Pietro, paired with a 2006 Old Vine Zinfandel.

 Judy: The Chicken Pietro was done with a sausage spice where oregano was dominant.  There was shrimp in this as well – a little complicated with the roasted red pepper and oregano flavors. Perhaps repetitive?

 Lindy: I found the wine brought the oregano to the forefront.  I’m not sure that was the desired result. 

 Next: Uncle Ray’s Meatballs with California Bay Leaf, served with a 2004 San Lorenzo Zinfandel.

Judy: This pork and beef mixture played nicely against a mint quality in the San Lorenzo Zin; perhaps because there is a 20% petit sirah in the cuvee.  The bay leaf accent in the meatball was a perfect choice; I noted the delicate violet and rose notes in this wine.  I couldn’t resist trying this bite with the Home Ranch Zin and it worked equally as well – again, the bay leaf was a perfect bridge to the blend.

 Lindy: This was actually my favorite bite, and favorite pairing.  While it wasn’t “pretty” the meatball was very tasty with good back flavor of the bay leaf, and I agree that worked well with the wines; I tried it with all 3 of the zins and they all paired just fine with this bite.

 Finally we were served Chef Peter’s Flank Steak with Creamed Spinach, to be enjoyed with a 2006 Home Ranch Petite Sirah.

 Judy:  Loved the spinach but was that really flank steak? The beef, always a best bet with petit sirah, was just okay.  I would have liked to see a pan reduction sauce of jus and petit sirah to help tie it together and bring up the beef flavors.

 Lindy:  I agree Judy, I don’t think that was flank steak.  Whatever kind of steak it was, it was largely flavorless and mine was over-cooked.  If you are going to give someone a small portion of something, I think it’s important that the bite be memorable. 

A sweet ending was a bit of Rogue Creamery Smoky Blue Cheese drizzled with local orange blossom honey served with a 2005 Dionigia Port.

Rogue Creamery Smokey Blue

Judy: This port, crafted from zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and petit sirah grapes was the highlight of my day.  Next time, I’ll ask for a more ample portion of the blue cheese to carry me through to the last sip.

 Lindy: I did enjoy the port and the pairing was nice as well, albeit a small portion. Although the flavors worked, it seems like Chef could have come up with something more to highlight the deliciousness of the port.

Our Verdict?

 Lindy:  I’m going to give this one a thumbs sideways.  I thought the plate looked messy with each taste almost on top of the next one; it was hard to keep the flavors separate. And while the winery is known for zin, I would like to see more diversity in the wines served; although admittedly I  don’t think you could get a taste of these particular zins without doing the pairing, they are mostly older vintages. I might go back, because they do change their menu monthly, and to see if they are more diverse in their wine selections; but at a $45.00 pp price tag, it was one of the priciest and least memorable ones for me.

 Judy: I go with one thump and one thumb own. Thumb down on the repetitious favors on the plate, and I agree, it appeared messy. One thumb way up for the wines; this winery is deservedly renown for exceptional zins and the port is not to be missed .

Seghesio Winery

700 Grove Street Healdsburg, CA

707.433.3579

www.seghesio.com

$45.00 pp Reservations Required

Summer 2011

By Lindy Baker and Judy Tischler

St. Francis Winery is located on the Highway 12 corridor in Sonoma Valley, just outside of Santa Rosa’s city limit.  The winery boasts beautiful mountain and vineyard views; a patio surrounds the tasting room and while they do not allow picnicking per se, they do have charcuterie plates available for purchase that you can enjoy either on the patio overlooking the grounds, or inside by a warm cozy fireplace.  Either would be a lovely way to spend an afternoon, but if you have the time, the food and wine experience is the best way to go.

Judy: “St. Francis Winery’s food and wine pairing experience was truly stellar!  Besides the thoughtful pairings that were presented, I was very impressed with the staff and their service, from Sharon’s greeting to saying farewell to Brooke and Chef David Bush!”

Lindy: “I agree with you Judy.  It was stellar.  The staff was wonderful, but just driving onto the grounds and walking towards that beautiful entrance was spectacular.  That huge bell tower fitted with a bell that was forged in the Molise area of Italy at the centuries old Marinelli Foundry, the same foundry that makes the bells for the Vatican, well, that’s impressive.  And when it rang, it sent chills down my spine the tone is so beautiful.”

Judy: “It was brilliant of them to start us off before the seated tasting with a sip of their 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, with its crisp acidity and fruity driven lively style.  Aren’t the grounds stunning?”

Lindy: “The Sauv Blanc was the perfect sipping wine to take on our walk-around of the grounds, appreciating the views; the soothing fountain and statue of St. Francis of Assisi.  I really enjoyed hearing Brooke tell of the annual blessing of the animals that they have there; and that a giraffe once showed up.  Can you imagine the sight?”

St. Francis of Assisi

After a brief history of the winery we were invited into the private dining room.  The settings were very elegant, wine glasses lined up waiting for wine, silverware lined up ready for what was to come; looking out through the large picture windows to the grounds and surrounding mountains.

St. Francis Dining Room

Judy: “Once seated in the lovely crescent shaped community style table configuration, I enjoyed the social atmosphere with the other guests.  Brooke, our host, knows her stuff; she was really adept at answering everyone’s questions about the wines as well as the dishes we sampled.  Now, about those pairings…”

Our first pairing… WOW!

We began with Poached Corvina Sea Bass with Housemade Yellow Curry & Spring Vegetable Succotash that was paired with a 2009 Chardonnay Wild Oak, Sonoma County.  On the same plate was a Torta Cubana, Housemade Chirizo, Jambon de Paris, Fire Roasted Salsa, Shredded Butter Lettuce & Smoke Paprika Fromage Blanc, paired with a 2007 Zinfandel, Giovanetti, Russian River Valley.

Judy: “I loved the light touch that Chef Dave displayed with the curry and cream.  The delicate late spring vegetable succotash complimented the poached fish and sauce, and it was so pretty on the plate.  The ’09 Wild Oak Chardonnay paired so nicely with it.  It was a beautiful pairing.”

Lindy: “This was a scrumptious pairing.  The Chardonnay played so nicely with the creamy mild curry, the fish was done to perfection and I loved that all the veggies are what was being harvested from the on-property garden.  You can’t get any fresher then that.”

Judy: “Alongside was that lovely petite brioche “torte” with a lightly seasoned housemade chorizo patty; roasted salsa, a bit of ham and that delicious hint of smoked paprika in the fresh cheese; perfectly paired with the ’07 Giovanetti Old Vine Zin.  It was interesting to hear Brooke share the story of the Giovanetti vineyard; wild and free vines that were 130 years old.”

Lindy: “The Zin was divine as was the torte.  I thought the chorizo was a bit on the mild side; but altogether the elements work well together.”

Second plate

Our second plate included Roasted Maitake Mushroom in a Smoked bacon-Tamari Broth, with Braised Mustard Greens and Shaved Green Onions, paired with a 2008 Syrah, Wild Oak, Sonoma County.  Set on the same plate was a Garlic and Thyme Roasted Sirloin of Beef with Potato, Cauliflower and Aged Cheddar Gratin, Creamed Spinach, Sweet Carrot Puree, Parsley Salt and Bordelaise Sauce which was paired with a 2008 Merlot, Wild Oak, Sonoma County.

Judy:  ”I loved the Maitake ‘Hen-of-the-Woods’ mushroom in the savory smoked bacon broth…perfect with the rich and bold 2008 Wild Oak Syrah.  With 9% Viognier, this Syrah still displayed a lot of weight, but the briny broth was a smart stylistic pairing.  Neither overpowered the other and I loved the umami-fusion in my mouth with this pairing.”

Lindy: “Well, as you know, I’m not a big fan of mushrooms… BUT I did enjoy the broth with the greens and thought the Syrah worked beautifully.  And you are so right about the umami-fusion in the mouth.  The broth had a wonderful depth to it.”

um, yum… garlic and thyme roasted sirloin of beef

Judy: “Didn’t you love that accent of creamed spinach and carrot puree with the slice of sirloin on the gratin?  So pretty with the 2008 Merlot.”

Lindy: “I did love it!  It was like having a little bite of steakhouse on the plate.  The parsley salt was a brilliant addition…and the ’08 Merlot was a perfect match to all the flavors in this bite.  Only problem was, I wanted more!”

the dessert plate

Finally, a nice surprise with the last pairing of a beautiful piece of Rouge River Blue Cheese, a housemade walnut bread and Port Reduction sitting along side a decadent chocolate cupcake with a fresh raspberry; served along with a taste of St. Francis’s signature Port.  WOW! What a great ending to the tasting.

Judy:  ”I really enjoyed the visuals of it all, the plates, the open and airy dining room, and the best view of Hood Mountain in all of Sonoma Valley!  When shall we return?”

Lindy:  ”I’m right there with you!  I can hardly wait until they change their seasonal plates so we can experience it all again.”

Our Verdict?  2 Thumbs WAY up!

We loved our visit to St. Francis Winery and Vineyards.  From the beginning to the end, this was an experience that will live on, for years to come.  Elegant, inviting and delicious. Reservations required.  ($35.00/$28.00 club members)

St. Francis Winery & Vineyards

100 Pythian Road

Santa Rosa CA  95405

800.543.7713

The following recipes are now available on the St. Francis Website:

Poached Corvina Sea Bass

Torte Cubana

Garlic and Thyme Roasted Sirloin of Beef

Roasted Maitake Mushroom

A Food and Wine Experience – Summer 2011

By Judy Tischler and Lindy Baker

Kendall-Jackson Winery is a name most people who enjoy wine would instantly recognize.  They make fine accessible wines that appeal to many palates; so you might not think, if you are into fine dining and fine wines, that this pairing would wow you. Well, you might not, and if you didn’t you would be oh so wrong.  They have two major bonuses: a 2 1/2 acre culinary garden that supplies the fresh seasonal produce, and a passionate Executive Chef, Justin Wangler, who works with his staff to come up with interesting and delicious ways to prepare dishes that show off the wines.

This beautiful estate is set right off Highway 101 in Fulton, just north of Santa Rosa.  You can see it off the highway, but getting to it is a little more challenging…the driveway is not that easy to find.  If you are coming from south Fulton Road you might accidentally turn into the vineyard road, or it might seem like you are continuing onto the “Wrong Way” of a freeway exit, but the driveway is in between there and there.  Drive carefully and look out for the traffic coming down that off-ramp!  Once on property, follow the meandering driveway to the parking area, then the beautifully landscaped pathways into the spacious tasting room.

The Kendall-Jackson food and wine pairing is offered daily and requires no reservation.  You can enjoy it on the patio terrace (weather permitting) or seated at one of the tables inside the tasting room.  If the weather permits, we encourage you to enjoy it on the patio.

Judy:  “Sitting out on the patio just set such a nice mood.  This tasting offered substantial samplings that left me completed sated and in no need of further sustenance…it was truly a meal.”

Lindy: “I agree.  It was a beautiful day to enjoy the outside, and the gardens were spectacular.  Knowing where most of our food was coming from was an added plus…talk about being local!”

Our charming server, Lance, first introduced us to the tasting flight of five wines and briefly explained how the wines would pair with the oncoming menu.  He told us that Executive Chef Justin would soon be along to give details of how each dish was prepared and paired with each component in the dish.

flight of wines

Judy: “I really enjoyed that Chef came to tell us about each dish.  His passion for cooking, and the cuisine, showed.”

Lindy: “I know, it was so up close and personal.  Chef was so gracious, and passionate about the food it was hard to wait to start.”

Judy: “I know that we were wishing our sun umbrella was not vibrant red, which prevented us from truly appreciating the visual appeal of each wine.  Other tables did have light and neutral shade umbrellas.”

Lindy: “While the colored umbrellas are visually appealing to the patio décor, I agree, a neutral umbrella would have been more effective for ‘seeing’ the wine’s color and clarity.”

Judy: “I did appreciate that we were seated as individual parties; this really enhanced the personal attention and interactive conversations with both Lance and Chef Justin.”

Lindy: “It’s nice that they have tables and seating areas to accommodate either a small or larger groups.  Chef Justin and Lance are equally attentive to all their guests, groups both large and small.  This is a big plus for each group.” 

our first pairings

Our first pairings were a Cornmeal Crusted Estate Heirloom Fried Green Tomatoes with Delice de la Vallee Cheese and Breakfast Radishes paired with the 2009 AVANT Chardonnay, along with an Heirloom Bean and Frisee Salad with Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette with Grilled Calamari and Red Pepper Aioli, paired with a 2008 Jackson Hills Chardonnay.

Lindy: “This was so good and a wonderful pairing.  The acid of the tomato, the creaminess of the cheese, soft acid in the wine…nice!”

Judy: “The Avant really complimented the fried green tomato, softness of the cheese and crunch of the French breakfast radish.  The cornmeal crust worked so nicely with the wine.”

Judy: “For the second part of the plate, I thought the preserved lemon played well against the tropical and subtle oak notes of the Jackson Hills Chardonnay. I loved the fresh red pepper aioli, and especially the top note of a subtle dusting of paprika…wow!”

Lindy: “Wow is right!  The salad was excellent.  To bad the plates were a little uneven and you got more olives and I got more calamari.  But that concentrated red bell pepper reduction was seductive, I wanted to lick my plate (but I refrained).”

buckwheat crepe with smoked ham hocks

Judy: “I thought the second taste was fun and delicious. The perfect balance of pairing the Syrah with the pork belly slider topped with a mirror of house-made Syrah BBQ sauce on Chef’s special “redneck baguette” (otherwise known as a trimmed hot dog bun) was delightful.”

Lindy: “I am again in complete agreement.  That little sandwich was not only tasty, but I loved how it held up to the Syrah; the combo of the fatty pork belly and the house-made BBQ sauce using the same wine…

sooo good.”

Judy: “And to finish with the Kobe beef and cactus taco, simmered in a light mole sauce – a climax of fresh and intense flavors all paired with three strong long finishing reds…need I say more?  I don’t think so.”

Lindy: “The Kobe and Cactus taco was my personal favorite of this trio. What a wonderful bite.”

Snake River Farms beef & nopales taco

We finished with a presentation of: Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Strawberry Gelee and Icebox Cookie, paired with a 2008 Late Harvest Riesling along with a box of Mama Frischkorn’s Caramel Corn which was paired with a 2006 Late Harvest Chardonnay

Judy: “Sipping the late harvest Riesling reminded me that we were indeed floating sweetly in the flavors of summer.  Since I knew the Sonoma County Fair award-winning caramel corn was about to end our tasting, I stoically resisted the ice-box cookie that peeked at me near that panna cotta!”

Lindy: “Well, I did eat the cookie and it was wonderful, but not as wonderful as that panna cotta.  Their use of recycled caviar jars to serve the pana cotta in was a very clever presentation.  Another clever idea was putting that caramel corn in a ‘take-away’ box, and take it away I did, after taking a couple of nibbles, of course.”  

award winning caramel corn

Judy: “I can’t wait to return for the next Heirloom garden-inspired pairings.”

Lindy: “I’m there Judy. I’m there.”

Our Verdict?  Two thumbs WAY up!

Chef Justin and his team prepared and presented amazingly delicious food and the chosen wines were interesting, diverse and paired perfectly.  What more could one want in a food and wine pairing?  While reservations are accepted, they are not required.  We also think it’s a great value at $30.00 pp/ $22.50 club.

When you go, do remember to allow yourself enough time to visit the culinary gardens.

A Food and Wine Pairing – Summer 2011

By Lindy Baker and Judy Tischler

Situated right off Highway 12 in Sonoma County is Mayo Family’s Reserve room where they showcase their wines with a food and wine pairing. The Highway 12 / Sonoma Valley corridor is an often overlooked part of wine country – it shouldn’t be.  Beautiful vineyards, farmlands and trees flank the highway which winds its way to some fine wineries including St. Francis, Kunde, Arrowood and more.   Mayo’s reserve room is a tasting room; the winemaking facility and hospitality center is located nearby in Glen Ellen on Arnold Drive.  The grounds are pleasant, but not a place to picnic or stroll.

our tasting room view

Judy: ”I found the tasting room to be really user friendly.  The intimate atmosphere, with sunny wall colors and pretty art, was arranged with tables and chairs and had more of a feeling of charming bistro rather than a typical tasting room.”

Lindy: ”I agree.  It was a little tricky to pull off the highway and into the rear parking lot and to enter in the side door, but once inside it felt very welcoming.”

Chef Clayton Lewis wasn’t there on our visit, but his sous chef, Edwin Porcayo, was extremely knowledgeable and eager to share his description of each dish.

Overall, the entire presentation of seven bites really highlighted Mayo’s wines. Winemaker Michel Berthoud crafts beautiful, accessible wines from Sonoma and Napa county fruit with an emphasis on the varietal’s self-expression.  The pairings we enjoyed showed a focused attention to the nuances of each wine and the spice notes in particular.

our first plate

We began with Sablefish, Goat Cheese and Apple “Donut”, the specific textures and red miso jus played elegantly with the 2008 Laurel Hill Estate Reserve Chardonnay.  It was plated next to a Cucumber, Peach and Lychee Timbale that was paired up with Mayo’s 2007 Viognier, Sara Lee’s Vineyard.  Also on the plate was a Salad of Sweetbreads, Wakame and Tomato, which was paired with a 2007 Pinot Noir, La Cruz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.

Judy: “I noticed the Viognier fruit from this vineyard does express pretty peach and floral notes.  While I didn’t pick up a distinctive lychee flavor in the timbale, I thought the cucumber was a smart accent.”

Lindy: “I usually don’t put fish and cheese together, but the sablefish with the goat cheese really worked nicely together.  It’s best to take it all in one bite to allow the flavors to play with each other.  The Chardonnay was soft, with a lot of mallow and butteriness. I found the timbal to be tasty, but it did bring out a bit of bitterness in the Viognier or vice versa.”

Judy: “I think the sweet, salty flavor of Wakame, popularly used in Japanese style seaweed salad, overpowered the sweetbreads, but it was a nice concept to pair it with the 2007 Pinot Noir.”

Lindy: You know a lot of people might be put off by the “sweetbreads” but truly they were like bacon.  I liked the tomato and the wakame, while I agree it was a bit overpowering, it did play nicely with the fruit driven Pinot.”

our second plate

Our second plate was a trio that began with a Wagu Flat Iron Streak, Trumpet Royales and Pomegranate Demi Glace served with a 2006 Cabernet Franc, Ridgeline Ranch “Reserve” Alexander Valley.  The second bite was Summer Soba Noodles and Shiitakes, which was paired with a 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, Random Ridge “Reserve” Napa Valley and to finish the plate, Rib Loin of Kurobuta Pork, Vanilla Sweet Potato Puree and Plum Sauce which paired with a 2007 Zinfandel, Ricci Vineyard, Russian River Valley.  Wow!

Judy: “This was my favorite plate!  The steak and mushrooms with the demi-glace had me going back and forth between my Pinot glass and the Cab Franc… both wines worked will with the bite for different reasons.  I think the Cab Franc hit spot-on with the tender beef and pomegranate, while the mushrooms worked with the Pinot Noir.”

Lindy: “I agree with you Judy.  I enjoyed this plate the most as well.  It’s always good to keep a sip or two from the previous pairs to “test” with the current bite.  Gives you a good perspective of what works and what doesn’t work so well.  While the chef is working with one idea in mind, I thought all of these bites worked with most any of the red wines served.  It shows how “food friendly” Mayo wines are.  And I loved the diversity.”

Judy: “I really enjoyed the soba noodles as well, and had fun playing with the different wines.  Tasting the wine, tasting the food and then tasting another wine.  Both the soba and the Kurobuta pork had a subtle sweetness and the textures played so nicely together.”

Lindy: “I thought the soba noodles worked best with the Pinot.  And the pork was very rare, more normal in serving pedigree pork then it was in the old days when pork had to be cooked to death.  Cooking it rare showcased its subtle flavor and soft texture. I did find it interesting, that in the middle of wine country, the entire tasting menu had an Asian influence; not that it didn’t work with the wines, just interesting conceptually.”

dessert

Our final plate was a Tropical Fruit Shortcake paired with a 2008 L.H. Gewurztraminer, Kunde Ranch “Reserve”,  Sonoma Valley

Judy: “Unfortunately, this wasn’t up to par for me…the shortcake was problematic; more like a dry, previously frozen biscuit.  I think the tropical fruit compote spooned over would have benefited from a squeeze of acid.  I did enjoy the Gwertz though.”

 Lindy: “I agree that this was a miss.  I think the biscuit was cold and it just felt like it had been defrosted.  I think the fruit would have shined better on a sweet biscuit as well, this was a buttermilk biscuit and it just was too sour for the sweet fruit.  Maybe, served as it was, the squeeze of acid might have worked, but then maybe the wine wouldn’t have as well. The Gwertz was delish.”

Our verdict: 2 thumbs up.  

 We enjoyed our experience at the Mayo Family Reserve Room.  The tastes were all well balanced both in flavor and texture and were beautifully plated.  The wines were interesting and diverse, and it was fun to play with them as we compared with each bite. Pedro, our wine guide, was very knowledgeable about the wines and chef Edwin’s enthusiasm was catching.

It was also a good value for the money ($35/$25 for club members). We definitely left full and satisfied.

Mayo Family Winery Reserve Tasting Room

9200 Sonoma Highway – Kenwood, CA  95452

(707) 833-5504

www.mayofamilywinery.com